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- Dirt patches can be due to poor seed choice. For example, fescues tend to be fairly shade and drought tolerant, but not wear tolerant so they’re not great for high traffic areas. They also have a bunch-like growth pattern, and over several years may progress to a patchy pattern if growing conditions are not ideal. In climates where fescue is used, perrenial ryegrass or bluegrass are likely to be recommended for an even, moderate to high traffic lawn. Mixes of these are really popular in cool climates. - Source: Internet
- If it’s patchy but mostly growing ok, you can probably top-dress it with more topsoil or compost. I saw improvement in some bad areas of my lawn after top-dressing with 1/2" or so of a manure and sawdust compost, raking to pull some of the existing grass up through the compost, and overseeding to help fill the grass back in. It’s need more and I’m going to do a couple more cycles of this each spring. Also, aerating a couple weeks before each compost addition, or in the fall when the grass is not stressed by heat or drought, helps mix the organic material deeper in the soil to encourage deeper root growth. - Source: Internet
- Table 5. Days after seeding to reach 50% coverage (based on sigmoidal model estimates) for coated versus uncoated turfgrass species under high [98% reference evapotranspiration (ET o )] and moderate irrigation (56% ET o ) and at normal (recommended: uncoatedz) and reduced (50% of normal rate) seeding rates. View Table - Source: Internet
- Table 4. Maximum turfgrass coverage (based on sigmoidal model estimates) for coated versus uncoated turfgrass species {data pooled over high [98% reference evapotranspiration (ET o )]} and moderate (56% ET o ) irrigation and seeding rates [normal (recommended)z and reduced (50% of normal rate)] and for species established at normal and reduced seeding rates [data pooled over high ETo and moderate ETo irrigation and over coating (coated and uncoated) treatments]. View Table - Source: Internet
- I’ve seen sod that even several years later can be rolled up again because it was rolled out directly on top of clay, and the roots never penetrated. I’ve seen lots of cases where a thin layer (1-2 inches) of compost-based top soil was spread on top of clay and seeded or sodded. From the beginning, there was not enough depth for healthy roots and good water retention, and it gets worse as the compost breaks down if the continuing root growth and clippings don’t keep up with the older organic material decaying (bagging the grass can exacerbate this). It also seems common that a light dose of starter fertilizer is added that keeps the grass green the first year if watered well enough, but immediately needs follow up with a slow release fertilizer. - Source: Internet
- Our results indicate that seed coating can reduce the effect of less favorable conditions such as moderate irrigation, reduced seeding rate, or for a combination of both. ‘Bengal’, Dunes Mix, Turf Blue™, and Turf Saver™ all achieved 50% coverage under high irrigation at normal seeding rate with uncoated seed and also at reduced seeding rate with coated seed. ‘Bengal’, Dunes Mix, and Turf Saver™ also reached 50% coverage under moderate irrigation at a reduced seeding rate with coated seed compared with normal seeding rate and uncoated seed. Furthermore, ‘Bengal’, Dunes Mix, and Turf Saver™ achieved 50% coverage under moderate irrigation when coated seed was used and a reduced seeding rate was applied (Table 5). - Source: Internet
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