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6 Facts What Does Walnut Wood Look Like Stained | Walnut Wood Stain Colors

  • You are using a spray and wipe stain, and a dye? I’m very ignorant of stains and dyes, as we try to encourage people to choose a wood that is naturally a color they like (or enhanced with glazes), hence using black walnut instead of a dark stained oak or painted cabinets. The money spent on the black walnut is offset by what I’d charge them for staining. So could you tell a little bit about why you take the steps you do in your schedule? - Source: Internet
  • Nobody has mentioned Watco oil, which is a linseed oil base with chemical driers added, and if you want easy availability (Home Depot, Lowe’s Ace, True Value), ease of use, the ability to finish with anything (shellac, polyurethane, lacquer, waterbased, varnish, etc.) and a 3D look because it soaks into the wood, it’s Watco! I’ve used Watco with lacquer over it for close to 40 years and almost invariably the customer’s response is “Wow, I didn’t know it was going to be that beautiful.” Watco has the problem of 2-3 days dry time and the spontaneous combustion concern, but if you’re careful and patient, the results are unmatched by any finish I’ve ever seen. - Source: Internet
  • I have a couple of questions after reading your schedule. I had always thought you weren’t supposed to sand raw wood finer than about 180 grit when staining. Too fine of sanding was supposed to close off the grain and cause the stain to pool on top instead of penetrating. Looking back, I even believe that is what happened in our shop many years ago when we sanded red oak with 220 grit before staining (this was all solvent based products). - Source: Internet
  • Walnut takes dyes and stains very nicely. The piece on the left is an example. Warm browns and orange-ish browns look good on the steam dried walnut. You can even add an overall burnt umber glaze after the first coat of finish for added effect and to enhance the grain. - Source: Internet
  • Paul, after looking at your photos, we actually do have air dried walnut. The raw color is good - the greyish tone was after the WB was applied, as contributor L mentioned. The veneer was a little lighter to start with. - Source: Internet
  • If you were working with air dried walnut that had good coloring, then you could just use a coat of highly thinned fast drying oil-base varnish or polyurethane like a stain on the bare wood before topcoating with the WB. The clear oil-base finish will pop the color, figure, and grain in the wood pretty good and once it dries completely, you can topcoat it with the waterborne finish without any problems. I like to use the fast dry poly from the local home center because it’s cheap and really does dry fast. Thin it with 2 parts naphtha or mineral spirits to one part finish. - Source: Internet
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