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  • The problem with it is that it is vastly over-used and is honestly not a high quality sealant. The difference between an $.89 tube of caulk and a $5.00 tube of caulk is not noticeable when you’re applying it. But it’s definitely something you’ll notice later as the caulking cures and begins to age. - Source: Internet
  • Latex Caulk or Acrylic Latex Caulk (Also known as “painter’s caulk”) - This is probably the most common type of caulking that you see used by everyone. It’s inexpensive, paintable, readily available almost anywhere, and it’s soap-and-water-cleanup makes it very easy to work with. It will most often have a 20 or 25 year warranty on the label (which I’m pretty sure is an attempt at humor on the part of the manufacturer). - Source: Internet
  • When you’re selecting a premium sealant pay close attention to the label to ensure that it is suitable for your particular project. Look for things like waterproof, paintable, indoor/outdoor, fast-drying, horizontal or vertical use only, wider temperature application, etc., etc. – depending on your needs. - Source: Internet
  • Believe it or not, caulking is a legitimate trade in the construction industry. There are many companies who’s sole occupation is caulking, sealing, and waterproofing structures – usually in commercial construction applications. But the point is that there is a skill, even an art to applying and finishing caulking, and if you want your next painting project to turn out great it warrants taking the time to learn how the pro’s do it. - Source: Internet
  • These high-performance sealants are definitely worth the extra money if you don’t want to run the risk of having to go back and re-caulk your entire project again. They remain much more flexible than their lesser-expensive counterparts, and are especially useful when sealing up joints on dissimilar surfaces that expand and contract at different rates (i.e. wood-to-brick, wood-to-metal, etc.) - Source: Internet
  • If you’re using a soap-and-water-cleanup caulk, the damp rag will come in handy to wet your finger prior to tooling the bead to keep the caulking from sticking to you and help you to leave a smooth joint. Use the paper towels to wipe away the excess from your finger and the surface. If you end up with a large amound of excess, try applying a smaller amount in your next joint. - Source: Internet
  • Inexpensive caulks will tend to shrink more and sometimes pull away from the joint as they dry. But even if they pass the initial shrink test most of them lose their flexibility as they age and will begin to crack and pull away from the joint over time. Latex caulks are also typically not a good choice for exterior application because they cannot stand-up to the demands that are put on them when materials (siding, trim, windows, doors) expand and contract with the change in temperature and weather. - Source: Internet
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