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- Moreover, high-quality primers contain a high concentration of solids that help compensate for defects in the drywall paper, mud, and texture. A single coat of primer is almost always sufficient, and if you’re painting the wall a dark color, consider tinting the primer. That way, you save paint when top coating. - Source: Internet
- The quality of any paint job depends on how well you’ve prepared the substrate, and this is especially true for drywall. Every raised edge and gouge that you don’t see on the unfinished drywall will be visible under a coat of flat or eggshell paint, so use a work light to help you find them. Shine it from various angles to highlight the defects and circle them so you can go back and make repairs later. - Source: Internet
- Using a high-quality latex primer sealer is an important first step. However, many defects in the drywall are practically invisible until the prime-coat has been applied. This means the drywall contractor will have to return to the job site to make repairs. Remember that these repaired areas will also need to be sealed once again before applying the intermediate coat. - Source: Internet
- In many new construction projects, painting work often begins before the lighting and heat systems have been installed. Proper lighting makes defects more noticeable, and a change in temperature can cause movement in the walls and seams, creating new defects. Repair any surface defects and seal your new drywall before painting commences. - Source: Internet
- It’s always best to cut in by painting around the edges of the wall with a paintbrush before you roll the main part. To avoid streaks while painting the wall, always brush toward the wet edge of the material you’ve just applied. When rolling, overlap the material you’ve already applied by half the width of the roller. Keep things neat by using a disposable rolling pan in your rolling tray and pouring paint into a separate bucket for loading your paintbrush. For an extra-smooth finish, sand lightly between coats with 150-grit sandpaper after you’re sure the paint is dry. - Source: Internet
- A roller is the go-to applicator when painting drywall; even when spraying paint, a seasoned pro back rolls to avoid streaks and drips. Avoid polyester roller covers, which spatter and leave lint; lambswool or mohair covers are more reliable. Use a 1/4-inch nap for semi-gloss finishes on smooth drywall, a 3/8-inch nap for flat finishes, and a thicker — up to 1-inch nap — for textured surfaces. - Source: Internet
- The variance in surface texture created by applying uneven layers of filler, sealer and intermediate coat across an entire wall is what causes the inconsistent appearance of the finish. Depending on when drywall repairs are made, a single wall could consist of drywall, sealer and intermediate coat in one area, and drywall, sealer, filler, sealer, intermediate coat directly beside it. For this reason, it is advisable to make as many drywall repairs as possible before painting work commences. - Source: Internet
- After you’re done with the taping, mudding, texturing, and sanding, two coats of paint are all you need to finish off your newly drywalled room. Well, almost all — because to get the paint to cover evenly, you need a coat of primer — unless you’re using an all-in-one topcoat that includes primer. Either way, the quality of the job on your newly finished drywall depends on the paint and the tools you use as well as on the painting technique. Painting new drywall is a little more challenging due to the porosity of the drywall paper and the difference in texture between that and the joint compound, so careful preparation is a must. - Source: Internet
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