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- In practice, there are many varieties of aluminum. During the refining process aluminum is mixed with specific proportions of other metals to produce desired characteristics of strength, weight, corrosion resistance and machinability in the combined metal, which is called an alloy. Many different alloys are available to meet specific needs, but ‘6061’ alloy is a good choice for working on the minilathe. - Source: Internet
- Cold rolled steel (CRS) is a low-carbon steel alloy which is formed by rolling under pressure to the desired shape and size. It is relatively inexpensive and stronger than aluminum so it has many uses around the home shop. Due its susceptibility to rust, though, it is not a good choice for components that will be exposed to moisture or chemicals. The most common alloy is 1018 which has good machinability and moderate strength, but can be troublesome if a smooth surface finish is desired. See 12L14, below, for a steel alloy that is easy to work with on the minilathe. - Source: Internet
- On the lathe, most of your work will require round (rod) stock. Other cross-sectional shapes, such as square, hexagonal and tubing are available, though, and often are useful. If you’re making something like a flashlight, it obviously makes a lot more sense to start with tubing, and make separate end caps, than to bore out a solid chunk of metal into a pile of chips! - Source: Internet
- A useful property of drill rod is that it can easily be hardened by heating to a red hot state and then quenching in oil or water. Thus treated, the metal is hard enough to use for tools such as punches. Depending on the quenching method, drill rod comes in three types: air hardening, water hardening and oil hardening. - Source: Internet
- You are unlikely to find 6061 or similar alloys at your local hardware store - the kind you find there is typically very soft and gummy and does not machine well. To get the good stuff you will need to order from an industrial supplier such as Online Metals, McMaster-Carr, MetalMart or Enco. A good starter supply would be 3’ lengths of 1/8", 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4". Some of the online metal suppliers have kits that include a wide range of stock for about $100. - Source: Internet
- Due to its toughness, stainless steel (SS) is somewhat more difficult to machine than the other metals commonly used in the home shop. It is fairly expensive, but when you need strength, rust and corrosion resistance and a finish that won’t tarnish, it’s hard to beat. Stainless steel is also available as precision-ground rod with dimensional accuracies of +/- .0005" which makes it an excellent choice for precision instrumentation applications. - Source: Internet
- From some suppliers you must specify the length that you want, and they may charge a ‘cutting fee’ to cut the material to size. Other suppliers sell stock in fixed length of 2’, 3’ or 6’. Typically I buy aluminum in 6’ lengths for diameters up to 1". Since the amount of metal in a rod increases with the square of the diameter, the price goes up steeply for larger diameters. To give you an idea, here are some prices from the 2003 Enco catalog for 6 foot lengths of 6061 round stock: - Source: Internet
- Within a specific type of metal such as brass, steel or aluminum, there are various alloys to choose from. Alloys are formed by mixing specific proportions of other metals together with the base metal to achieve desired characteristics in the metal. For example, adding Nickel and 10% or more Chromium to carbon steel produces stainless steel which is highly rust and corrosion resistant and is usually non-magnetic. There are over 60 different alloys of stainless steel alone, but, as hobbyists, we typically need to know about only a few of them. However, you will need to make informed choices to get the best results for your projects. - Source: Internet
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